Monday May 18, 2009 - Easy jog - 5km
Finally got out for a run - yippee. Jogged from the hotel along Calle de Alcal and then along Paseo del Prada. Cool early in the morning with few people out and about. Feels great to run again althought the ankle is still a little sore, particularly the next day. There is a 10km race along the Paseo del Prado at the end of the month but sadly I will not be in Madrid then.
Friday, May 22, 2009
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
The Lands End
Tuesday May 5, 2009
Day 28: Santiago to Fisterra (Bus - 100km)
Some people walk the last 100km to reach the ocean at Lands End (Fisterra) - that was never part of my plan. Instead I sat on the bus, as it took 3 hours to meander through small coastal towns to reach Fisterra. It is fantastic to see the sea. For me the walk is now finally over. Hope to go for a run soon. I will stop in Finsterra for a few days to rest and recover then back to Santiago to become "The Flaneur" again for the next few weeks.
Day 28: Santiago to Fisterra (Bus - 100km)
Some people walk the last 100km to reach the ocean at Lands End (Fisterra) - that was never part of my plan. Instead I sat on the bus, as it took 3 hours to meander through small coastal towns to reach Fisterra. It is fantastic to see the sea. For me the walk is now finally over. Hope to go for a run soon. I will stop in Finsterra for a few days to rest and recover then back to Santiago to become "The Flaneur" again for the next few weeks.
Camino de Santiago
Monday May 4, 2009
Day 27: San Carlos to Santiago ( Walk - 5km)
Short stroll in the morning to the Cathedral in Santiago and it was all over. Got my certificate of completion and went to the Pilgrims mass at lunch. Santiago de Compostela is a beautiful old city with lots of small streets meandering in all directions. The Cathedral was hard to find as it is not built on high ground, like in other cities. I kept getting lost as the Cathedral spires are not at all prominent. It added to a strange feeling of sadness, loss and dislocation that has come over me this afternoon. Feel that something is missing.
Day 27: San Carlos to Santiago ( Walk - 5km)
Short stroll in the morning to the Cathedral in Santiago and it was all over. Got my certificate of completion and went to the Pilgrims mass at lunch. Santiago de Compostela is a beautiful old city with lots of small streets meandering in all directions. The Cathedral was hard to find as it is not built on high ground, like in other cities. I kept getting lost as the Cathedral spires are not at all prominent. It added to a strange feeling of sadness, loss and dislocation that has come over me this afternoon. Feel that something is missing.
Six Foot Track to Santiago
Sunday May 3, 2009
Day 26:Melida to San Carlos (Walk - 48km)
Another fantastic summery day with cool start in the morning and heat during the daytime as I set off from Melida to Grandmas house.Had originally planned a shorter day walking but after turning off where I was supposed to be staying and not finding the Alburgue I decided to try going all the way to the entry to Santiago, leaving just a short stroll downtown in the morning to the Cathedral to finish. The morning walking was pretty much the same as yesterday, mainly small dairy farms. In the afternoon I walked a few hours with people I had met previously. The heat was almost too strong for walking after lunch. I am beginning to understand why the Spanish have the siesta. The last 15km I walked on my own untill reaching San Marcos at 7 pm. San Marcos is the last village before arriving in Santiago. The afternoon walking was quite surreal it was all mainly through dense Eucalypt forest. I felt like I was going home. I had to keep remind myself that I was still in Spain. The smell, the russle of the wind in the trees, the leaves underfoot were all so familar after weeks of flora that was so different. One section reminded me of the Six Foot Track - I though I was dreaming. Oh it would be so - so delicious to ditch the pack and go for a run but I think I need new legs and feet at the moment as well. My left knee is held together by sticky tape and Voltarin. But remarkably I found the walk not that hard, although towards the end I did start to think it was never ending.
Day 26:Melida to San Carlos (Walk - 48km)
Another fantastic summery day with cool start in the morning and heat during the daytime as I set off from Melida to Grandmas house.Had originally planned a shorter day walking but after turning off where I was supposed to be staying and not finding the Alburgue I decided to try going all the way to the entry to Santiago, leaving just a short stroll downtown in the morning to the Cathedral to finish. The morning walking was pretty much the same as yesterday, mainly small dairy farms. In the afternoon I walked a few hours with people I had met previously. The heat was almost too strong for walking after lunch. I am beginning to understand why the Spanish have the siesta. The last 15km I walked on my own untill reaching San Marcos at 7 pm. San Marcos is the last village before arriving in Santiago. The afternoon walking was quite surreal it was all mainly through dense Eucalypt forest. I felt like I was going home. I had to keep remind myself that I was still in Spain. The smell, the russle of the wind in the trees, the leaves underfoot were all so familar after weeks of flora that was so different. One section reminded me of the Six Foot Track - I though I was dreaming. Oh it would be so - so delicious to ditch the pack and go for a run but I think I need new legs and feet at the moment as well. My left knee is held together by sticky tape and Voltarin. But remarkably I found the walk not that hard, although towards the end I did start to think it was never ending.
Sunshine to Melida
Saturday May 2, 2009
Day 25: Gonzar to Melide (Walk - 32km)
Left early as I found it impossible to sleep. My bunk was located between a snorer who also racked in smokers caugh through the night and a women who snored non-stop. I am pleased that I got going when I did as it was a glorious with cold air and pale blue early morning sky. The start of the walk was a gradual uphill for the first 10km. The view back was spectacular with the mist shouding the low lying land as the sun came up over the horizon. The countryside I walked though today was very similar to yesterday. Many small dairy farming villages with cows stopping to give me stare as I passed. The other notable feature of the walk today was the appearance of Eucalyptus trees which I guess were introduce from Australia. Seemed strange after the last few weeks of walking to see familiar vegetation - made me more than a little homesick. After lunch the temperature was noticably higher then yesterday afternoon. It felt almost summery. I could walk in only 2 layers of clothing instead of the 4 or 5 I have been in up to now. But of course for the Europeans it was positively tropical. Arrived in Melida which was my destination for the day - a small town with lost of peole out and about enjoying the late afternoon spring sunshine.
Day 25: Gonzar to Melide (Walk - 32km)
Left early as I found it impossible to sleep. My bunk was located between a snorer who also racked in smokers caugh through the night and a women who snored non-stop. I am pleased that I got going when I did as it was a glorious with cold air and pale blue early morning sky. The start of the walk was a gradual uphill for the first 10km. The view back was spectacular with the mist shouding the low lying land as the sun came up over the horizon. The countryside I walked though today was very similar to yesterday. Many small dairy farming villages with cows stopping to give me stare as I passed. The other notable feature of the walk today was the appearance of Eucalyptus trees which I guess were introduce from Australia. Seemed strange after the last few weeks of walking to see familiar vegetation - made me more than a little homesick. After lunch the temperature was noticably higher then yesterday afternoon. It felt almost summery. I could walk in only 2 layers of clothing instead of the 4 or 5 I have been in up to now. But of course for the Europeans it was positively tropical. Arrived in Melida which was my destination for the day - a small town with lost of peole out and about enjoying the late afternoon spring sunshine.
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Cows of Gonzar
Friday May 1, 2009
Day 24: Sarria to Gonzar (Walk - 30km)
Left Sarria just just before sunrise. I was pleased to be able to walk as I was not sure my ankle would hold up. But Voltarin is fantastic as I am discovering.
Day 24: Sarria to Gonzar (Walk - 30km)
Left Sarria just just before sunrise. I was pleased to be able to walk as I was not sure my ankle would hold up. But Voltarin is fantastic as I am discovering.
Today I walked along quite country lanes passing through numerous small vilages, on a perfect spring day.Cool in the morning and glorious sunshine through the rest of the day. Walking most of the way throughy villages supporting small family farms, mainly dairy. Cows and their by-product were everywhere. I imagined myself being able to live this country life but without the cows. Just as I was thinking this I walked through Montras which was just that. The most stylish village cafe I have seen on the Camino was also one of the few buildings in this village. Stopped for coffee and almost stayed for lunch. But instead stopped for lunch in Portomarin. The town was very tidy which is not surprising since it was rebuilt when the dam built in 1956 flooded the original town. Gonzar was as far as I made it today, had plans to go further. Gonzar is very very small and has a faint aroma of its main inhabitants - cows.
Rain to Sarria
Thursday April 30, 2009
Day 23: Triacastela to Sarria ( Walk - 27km)
The rain in Spain falls mainly in Gallicia. It is the state through which the last 150 km of the Camino passes. It can rain for weeks apparently and today the rain came in a slow drizzle which let up a little but stayed around pretty much all day.
Even though it was raining, it was not cold at all and was quite pleasant walking. I chose the walk to Sarria through Samos partly to see the Benedictine monastery there and partly to avoid walking along the highway. The monastery is huge and quite well preserved and the town would be nice to visit by car. The walking today was almost entirely through lush green countryside. The wet climate is evident by the ferns growing all along the path. I got chased by a sheep dog who did not like me getting to close to his sheep and the baby goats. There is 112 km to to Santiago and this afternoon I was getting excited by the prospect of maybe another 3-4 days walking and I will be in finished. As I was heading out for a walk after dinner I slippped on the stairs and twisted my ankle. I could not believe that I could be so close and yet may not be able to finish. I got the ankle taped and took Voltaren and laughed at the absurdity of it all.
Day 23: Triacastela to Sarria ( Walk - 27km)
The rain in Spain falls mainly in Gallicia. It is the state through which the last 150 km of the Camino passes. It can rain for weeks apparently and today the rain came in a slow drizzle which let up a little but stayed around pretty much all day.
Even though it was raining, it was not cold at all and was quite pleasant walking. I chose the walk to Sarria through Samos partly to see the Benedictine monastery there and partly to avoid walking along the highway. The monastery is huge and quite well preserved and the town would be nice to visit by car. The walking today was almost entirely through lush green countryside. The wet climate is evident by the ferns growing all along the path. I got chased by a sheep dog who did not like me getting to close to his sheep and the baby goats. There is 112 km to to Santiago and this afternoon I was getting excited by the prospect of maybe another 3-4 days walking and I will be in finished. As I was heading out for a walk after dinner I slippped on the stairs and twisted my ankle. I could not believe that I could be so close and yet may not be able to finish. I got the ankle taped and took Voltaren and laughed at the absurdity of it all.
Eagles Soaring to El Cabriero
Wednesday April 29, 2009
Day 22:Ruitelan to Triacastela (Walk - 30 km)
Today I flew on the wings of an eagle lifting me to the sky. OK - that was Cat Stevens, not me, but the song was going through my mind as I ascended from Ruitelan to El Cabriero. Today is the last of the days in the mountains, with a total ascent of 1280m to El Cabreiro and the Alto del Poio, the last high point before the gradual decent towards the coast and Santiago. Overcast misty weather made for another perfect day in the mountains for me. I felt like I had wings attached to my feet as I climbed. The scenery was stunning and as I got higher the surrounding landscape gradually dissapeared in the mist. The morning walking through small villages to the sound of cowbells and birds and no other walkers for miles - could not get any better. I was prepared for El Cobriero to be a bit touristy but when I got there it was shrouded in mist and very serene. It was really very special and for me a real turing point on this walk. On the 13 km descent to Triacastela I walked with a Swiss woman Ulrika with whom I had walked previously on the way up to Cruz de Ferro. Rolling green hills on both sides were visible as the mist was left behind in the mountains. Triacastela is a sad looking town without any noteworthy features. Sad to be leaving the mountains behind but looking forward to reaching Santiago.
Day 22:Ruitelan to Triacastela (Walk - 30 km)
Today I flew on the wings of an eagle lifting me to the sky. OK - that was Cat Stevens, not me, but the song was going through my mind as I ascended from Ruitelan to El Cabriero. Today is the last of the days in the mountains, with a total ascent of 1280m to El Cabreiro and the Alto del Poio, the last high point before the gradual decent towards the coast and Santiago. Overcast misty weather made for another perfect day in the mountains for me. I felt like I had wings attached to my feet as I climbed. The scenery was stunning and as I got higher the surrounding landscape gradually dissapeared in the mist. The morning walking through small villages to the sound of cowbells and birds and no other walkers for miles - could not get any better. I was prepared for El Cobriero to be a bit touristy but when I got there it was shrouded in mist and very serene. It was really very special and for me a real turing point on this walk. On the 13 km descent to Triacastela I walked with a Swiss woman Ulrika with whom I had walked previously on the way up to Cruz de Ferro. Rolling green hills on both sides were visible as the mist was left behind in the mountains. Triacastela is a sad looking town without any noteworthy features. Sad to be leaving the mountains behind but looking forward to reaching Santiago.
Back in the Mountains
Tuesday April 28, 2009
Day 21: Cacabelos to Ruitelan (Walk - 30km)
Third week of my excellent adventure is coming to close today and it is hard to believe that it has been that long. Just walking along one day at a time. As I was getting ready to leave this morning my thoughts were that I just about had enough of this, I want it to be over. This morning a light rain was falling but it was not cold. Cacabelos seems to be a dreary town in the middle of a wine growing region. Too small to be a town but too large to be a village. In the morning I walked though vineyards mainly untill reaching the next town, Villafranca which is a beautiful town with a huge church towering over it. On leaving town, I took a longer route over the mountains to reach the next town. Being in the mountains again was fantastic. I seem to have the trail to myself with stunning scenery as I walked to the top. I felt light and the climbing was effortless. The rain was falling intermitently - I could hear coockoo birds calling in the distance and even the sun came out briefly. Not sure if it was the Voltarin or the endorphins kicking in, or the Helen Reddy song "I am woman" going around in my head - or a combination of all - but I felt once again that I could just walk forever. Even as I came across a man with an axe not for one moment did it occur to me to be worried. After two hours of climbing, the trail descended off the mountain through a chestnut grove for about 3 km and fom here there was a few km walking along avery busy highway before turning off and walking through two small villages overshadowed by the highway flyovers to reach the village of Ruitelan. Stayed in a lovely Alburgue run by 2 guys with meditation music playing in the background - it feels really very homy and the home cooked meal they prepared fro five of us who were staying there was a great way to finish the day.
Day 21: Cacabelos to Ruitelan (Walk - 30km)
Third week of my excellent adventure is coming to close today and it is hard to believe that it has been that long. Just walking along one day at a time. As I was getting ready to leave this morning my thoughts were that I just about had enough of this, I want it to be over. This morning a light rain was falling but it was not cold. Cacabelos seems to be a dreary town in the middle of a wine growing region. Too small to be a town but too large to be a village. In the morning I walked though vineyards mainly untill reaching the next town, Villafranca which is a beautiful town with a huge church towering over it. On leaving town, I took a longer route over the mountains to reach the next town. Being in the mountains again was fantastic. I seem to have the trail to myself with stunning scenery as I walked to the top. I felt light and the climbing was effortless. The rain was falling intermitently - I could hear coockoo birds calling in the distance and even the sun came out briefly. Not sure if it was the Voltarin or the endorphins kicking in, or the Helen Reddy song "I am woman" going around in my head - or a combination of all - but I felt once again that I could just walk forever. Even as I came across a man with an axe not for one moment did it occur to me to be worried. After two hours of climbing, the trail descended off the mountain through a chestnut grove for about 3 km and fom here there was a few km walking along avery busy highway before turning off and walking through two small villages overshadowed by the highway flyovers to reach the village of Ruitelan. Stayed in a lovely Alburgue run by 2 guys with meditation music playing in the background - it feels really very homy and the home cooked meal they prepared fro five of us who were staying there was a great way to finish the day.
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